A Photo Opportunity on Senja

25/09/2025

We abandoned Sommarøy with reluctance, but it seemed like the kind of place best saved for better weather and has been earmarked for a future visit.

The ferry to Senja

It was a short drive to the ferry terminal at Brensholmen. We had to make a relatively early start for the first ferry of the day. Of the four daily crossings only one was in the morning, so we wanted to be sure we were at the terminal in plenty of time to get a space on the ferry.

Once at the ferry terminal we queued in single file along the road in company with other tourists travelling on the well worn tourist route from Tromsø to the island of Senja. Fortunately tourists and locals alike were all squeezed on board the morning ferry with us nestled somewhere in the middle. It was the first time the staff had encouraged us to really nudge up to the next vehicle.

On the way to Senja

Senja Island

Senja is Norway’s second largest island (so long as you don’t count the distant Svalbard) and is often called ‘Norway in miniature’. Narrow mountainous fingers stretch out into the arctic ocean, with cliffs that slice straight down into narrow fjords  The interior is wild and rugged with forests, lakes and moorland. Closer to the mainland is the rolling countryside of the agricultural heart of the island. We arrived on the eastern coast, spotting eagles soaring over us and snow capped hills in the distance.

We had a lot of walks potentially pinned on the island. With a less than perfect weather forecast we  decided to aim for a dramatic, but not too difficult or long, walking route. A good option for a cold and drizzly day. So we put Fjordgård into the satnav and set off along the Senja scenic route.

Fjordgård

The fishing village of Fjordgård is on the eastern edge of one of the narrow peninsulas of Senja. Once it would have only been accessible by sea, the steep cliffs blocking land access. But now there is a series of three tunnels that provide road access. These are not large road tunnels, just a hole bored through the mountains that’s one vehicle wide except for the occasional passing place. As we drove through the dark tunnels we were often beyond the passing places by the time we spotted them. Presumably the oncoming headlights of vehicles would illuminate them sufficiently to allow us to pull in, but we didn’t get to find out as the roads were quiet.

As we approached Fjordgård we saw plenty of signs directing motorhomes to the parking which was down near the harbour. Motorhomes are allowed to stay overnight and although there aren’t any water or waste facilities there was a good clean toilet and plenty of bins. We paid our 300 NOK overnight fee and prepared ourselves for a walk.

Hesten and Segla

Snow was still lingering on the mountains so we wrapped up for wintery weather. It turned out to be a bit of overkill and we gradually lost the layers as we ascended. By the time we descended again we could barely see any snow on the distant mountains and the weather was damp and mild.

Our objective was the small summit of Hesten, but really we were here to see the neighbouring sharks-fin spectacle that is Segla. It didn’t disappoint. We walked up through the village onto peaty paths and then the shattered rocks of Hesten, all the time with Segla beside us.

In the valley on the other side of Hesten we could hear a strange croaking, I wondered if it was deer, but it was Paul who said it sounded like pheasants, and that was the clue. It was a whole flock of ptarmigan in their winter whites.

From Hesten we descended to the saddle between the two peaks, walking towards Segla and getting amazing views of the sheer side of the mountain descending into the sea. Paul walked along the steep precipice while I kept away from the edge, it was a little slippery for me.

This wasn’t a peaceful walk. We may have started out alone but by the time we were descending there were two minibus groups struggling straight up from the village to the saddle where they could get their photo opportunity. This popular part of the path was incredibly eroded. One girl in her once pristine white trainers was having trouble with the descent because the slippery loose peat of the path left her with no grip. It seems like a prime opportunity for more Sherpa steps to save the path from becoming unnavigable.

That night the wind picked up and we were kept awake with intermittent gusts of wind followed by heavy splats of rain on the roof. We’d left our doormat outside and we were surprised to see it still there the next morning. I had to work so we stayed in the car park for the morning until I’d finished all my tasks. Paul tried to fish but the wind stopped him, instead he used the time to wander around the village and pop to the local shop to pick up some bread and cakes.

The Senja Scenic Route

We decided to head off the island that afternoon. Our original plan had been to take the ferry from Gryllefjord to Andenes, but we were too late. The ferry route had stopped for the season the week before.

We still followed the Senja scenic route almost to the ferry terminal before turning south and cutting back through the island. The official scenic routes of Norway all pass through incredible vistas, national parks and tourist attractions, but they also have rest stops that are usually architect designed.

The weather was grey and the clouds were low. We stopped at the Tungeneset rest area first. A wooden platform takes you out onto the coastal granite rocks. The promised views of mountains were limited to their lower halves, but the rocky shore was dramatic enough.

The next rest stop of Bergsbotn proffered a viewing platform above the fjord, again the mountain views were hidden by the thick cloud but we soaked up the atmosphere.

After the scenic route we followed the main road south-east through the island under a blanket of cloud and through constant drizzle. The moisture dripped from trees and streams gurgled alongside the road. Fog collected in pockets. Perhaps it should have been depressing but instead it was atmospheric and otherworldly. We eventually reached civilisation and the high arched bridge that would take us off the island of Senja.