Sun and Sea at Silver Sands

17/09/24

We always need an antidote after a city. Something different enough to allow us to relax.

First of all I had to do a half day’s work. We stayed in the campsite as long as possible to make the most of the electric hook up while I completed a few calls and activities and then we were off. This working malarkey is proving a little constraining and I wonder if I’m going to end up resenting it, but it’s only been a couple of weeks so I probably need to get into a bit of a rhythm.

The Forth Bridge is well known as a decorating challenge, but there are actually three crossing points and we were on the modern Queensferry Crossing rather than the rail bridge that, according to the saying, needs constant repainting. I was still working in the back of the van so didn’t really have much opportunity for gawking but did manage to snap a couple of photos.

Crossing the Queensferry Bridge with the Forth Road Bridge in the background

We only had to go a short way along the coastline before we dropped down into the affluent seeming commuter town of Aberdour and the small crescent beach of Silver Sands. We crossed our fingers for a park up in one of the designated bays and found it easy to squeeze in despite the numerous cars parked up in the designated overnight spaces (there is nothing stopping any vehicle parking up overnight here so don’t expect a parking bay for motorhomes only). The parking, like many other places in Fife, is managed by the Fife Coast and Countryside Trust who have taken a very progressive attitude to managing motorhome parking, you can see all of the sanctioned park ups here.

Parked up with views of the beach

We parked up so that the side of the roof with our solar panels was facing towards the sea ready to pick up the early morning rays and managed to level up with just one chock. In the layby were a very varied group of nationalities. German, Dutch, French and Danish.  A few vans drove in and left even though there were still spaces available. Obviously the moderately sloping and shaded parking was not to their taste, all the better for us.

The day was beautifully sunny and calm so we immediately took ourselves to the beach for a swim. The water might charitably be described as cold, freezing even. Eventually we persuaded our bodies to accept the bracing chill and even relaxed as we swam and let the sunshine warm us. I never quite managed to stretch my arms out for real swimming strokes. A bit of gentle bobbing around in the water was good enough. We were lucky that high tide was timed perfectly for mid afternoon, at low tide the water is a fair distance away and too shallow for swimming.

Heading into the sea. It took a few attempts before I made it all the way in

After our swim we did a quick circuit around the local area, walking around to the lighthouses on Hawkcraig Point, their automated flashing lights still a working signal to passing boats. A noticeboard informed us about the area’s history as an experimental hydrophone base and seaplane station during the first world war, There are patches of concrete and a dilapidated pier, but little else remains of this early attempt to foil the German U-Boats.

From the point we followed the path to Aberdour harbour which has an attractive grassy backdrop and plenty of benches, but sadly no ice-cream.

After returning from Aberdour harbour we popped to the Silver Sands café to check out the facilities. In addition to very clean public toilets for the daytime, there is one toilet left open all night. Anything to eke out the life of our toilet cassette is useful but I think we’ll draw the line at schlepping to the other end of the beach for a late night wee. There were several changing cubicles dotted around and plenty of bins. We satisfied our urge for ice creams at the café, sitting and watching the sea and catching a glimpse of the sleek backs of either dolphins, or more likely porpoises, along the edge of the bay. 

When night had fallen we went back up to the headland to see the harvest moon shining out over the sea and the lights of the Forth bridges in the distance. The following evening we tried to capture the moonrise. Sadly the predicted aurora didn’t come to anything, but we’ll keep our fingers crossed for a sighting before we return home.

Moonrise over the pastel twilight sea

The following day I had to work again so Paul dropped the kayak off Bertie’s roof and took himself out for a day of fishing. Alongside a multitude of small fish (too small to keep), two mackerel were caught, but one escaped. Never mind, we still had a small mackerel starter for our supper. Paul had spent many hours battling the fierce tidal currents in the firth but to no avail. It was a good job we weren’t relying on our foraging for dinner. My working day was accompanied by the sounds of people enjoying the busy beach. Obviously many locals were making the most of such lovely weather before autumn sets in.

After work I joined Paul for another swim in the mirror calm water, very grateful for my DryRobe to warm me up afterwards. The sun disappears from this beach by late afternoon and although we tried to find a patch of sunshine for a post-swim warm up, it wasn’t around for long enough to really do its job.

We left on the Wednesday morning as there is a maximum two night stay here, but first of all we left some money in the honesty box to say thanks for the parking facility. I hope everyone who uses this parking area contributes something.